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Guinea Pigs

The guinea pig or cavy is a docile rodent native to the Andes Mountain area of South America. They were first domesticated by the Andean Indians of Peru who used them as a food source and as a sacrificial offering to Incan gods. During the 16th century, Dutch explorers introduced guinea pigs to Europe where they were selectively bred by fanciers. The guinea pig entered the research laboratory in the 18th century and have since made significant contributions to the scientific community. To this day, the guinea pig remains a favorite pet among children due to their docile behavior, ease of handling, and clean, quiet nature.

Through selective breeding efforts, guinea pigs are found in an array of colors and coat types from which to choose. Four primary varieties are commonly encountered in the pet industry. The Shorthair or English is characterized by having a uniformly short hair coat. The Abyssinian has whorls or rosettes in their short, rough, wiry coat. The Silky is a large variety distinguished by its medium length silky hair. The Peruvian is recognized by its very long silky hair. All types are commonly kept as pets.

Diet

Good quality food and fresh, clean water must be readily available at all times. Commercially available pelleted chows provide all the essential nutrients required by guinea pigs as long as the pellets are fresh and wholesome when offered. These pellets contain 18-20% protein, 16% fiber, and approximately 1 gram of vitamin C per kilogram of ration.

Do not feed rabbit pellets as a substitute for guinea pig pellets. They are not equivalent in nutritive value. Unlike rabbits and most other mammals, guinea pigs require a high level of folic acid and vitamin C. Guinea pig diets are uniquely formulated with these requirements in mind, whereas rabbit pellets are not.

Unlike most mammals, guinea pigs cannot manufacture their own vitamin C, therefore they must receive it from an outside source. Pelleted guinea pig diets are supplemented with this essential vitamin. However, even when properly stored in a cool, dry place, fresh pellets lose about one-half of the vitamin C content due to degradation within six weeks of manufacture. For this reason, we also recommend further vitamin C supplementation in the water as follows : 100 milligrams ascorbic acid (human vitamin C syrup or soluble tablet/capsule) added to 1 cup of drinking water, made up fresh every 12 hours. Alternatively, a guinea pig can be offered one handful of fresh kale, cabbage or other dark leafy green high in ascorbic acid.

Additions to the guinea pig's diet should be made carefully. The majority of the diet, at least 80-90%, must be the balanced ration (guinea pig pellets). As mentioned above, a small amount of kale, cabbage, or orange can be fed as a vitamin C supplement. In addition, fresh greens, timothy / grass hay, and small amounts of fruit may be offered daily with some precautions. These foods should not make up more than 10-15% of the daily consumption. Furthermore, the fresh items must be thoroughly washed to avoid exposing your pet to pesticide residues or bacterial contamination. Any change in the guinea pig's diet should be made gradually due to their sensitive digestive systems.

Guinea pigs tend to be creatures of habit, and therefore, do not tolerate changes in the presentation of their food or water nor changes in the taste, odor, texture, or form of the food itself. Pet owners should avoid making radical changes in the food or water containers as well. Any sudden change in routine can result in the pet refusing its food and water which can be disconcerting and ultimately dangerous.

All foods should be provided in heavy ceramic crocks that resist both tipping and chewing. The crocks should be high enough to keep bedding and fecal pellets out of the food but low enough for easy access by the animal.

Water is most easily made available by the use of a water bottle equipped with a 'sipper' tube. Guinea pigs tend to contaminate and clog their water bottles by chewing on the end of the sipper tube and 'backwashing' food particles into it. For this reason, it is imperative that all food and water containers be cleaned and disinfected daily.

Handling

The Guinea pig's natural curiosity and friendly disposition makes it fairly easy to handle. Most Guinea pigs will approach a hand introduced into their cage and can be easily scooped into the palm of the hand. Usually, cupping one hand under the rump while the other hand cradles the midsection is a good way to pick up guinea pigs safely. Two hands are recommended so that nothing is left dangling (they're larger than most of the other "pocket pets"), and because there is less risk of dropping them. Guinea pigs are quite nose-heavy, and will do a potentially injurious nosedive if dropped. Guinea pigs not accustomed to being handled may jump and run, but rarely turn aggressive. Once picked up, the Guinea pig can be restrained by one hand with the over-the-back grip. This is done by scuffing the loose skin over their neck between your thumb and index finger while the base of the tail is held between your fourth and fifth fingers. The Guinea pig may struggle when held on its back or manipulated, so be careful not to let it escape.

Housing

Housing accommodations provided for pet guinea pigs are limited only by one's imagination, ingenuity, and budget. There is no single correct way to house your guinea pig as long as the well-being of your pet is considered. Adequate housing is a major factor in the maintenance of healthy pets.

Guinea pigs can be housed within enclosures made of wire, stainless steel, durable plastic, or glass. The latter three materials are preferred since they resist corrosion. Wood should not be used due to difficulty in cleaning and susceptibility to destructive gnawing. Many plastics are also easily destroyed by gnawing. Ideally, the enclosure should have one side open for adequate ventilation, so be careful when using aquariums. The design and construction of the enclosure must be escape-proof. In addition, the cage must be free of sharp edges and other potential hazards. The size of the enclosure should allow for normal guinea pig activity. Approximately 100 square inches of floor area per adult guinea pig is recommended. Breeding animals should be provided 180 square inches each. The enclosure can remain opened on the top if the sides are at least 10 inches high (as long as other family pets such as dogs or cats are not a threat).

Cage flooring can be either wire or solid. Wire mesh flooring provides a cleaner environment and easier maintenance but may result in injuries to the feet and hocks. Housing on wire over long periods of time often results in foot pad and hock infections from abrasive rubbing on fecal soiled wire. To reduce the incidence of these problems provide a solid platform as a resting place in one area of the cage. Broken legs are common in guinea pigs that fall through the wire mesh and panic to escape. Although solid flooring requires more effort to keep sanitary, it is safer for the guinea pig. Solid floored cages also tend to be more aesthetically pleasing when appropriate bedding is used.

Bedding materials must be clean, non toxic, absorbent, relatively dust-free, and easy to replace. Acceptable beddings are wood shavings, shredded paper, processed ground corn cob, and commercial pellets. Make sure the ground corn cob is properly processed and stored to reduce fungal spore problems. Cedar shavings have been associated with causing respiratory difficulty and liver disease in some guinea pigs and thus should not be used. Saw dust should also be avoided since it tends to accumulate within the external genitalia of male guinea pigs causing an impaction.

The environment in the vicinity of the pet's cage is another important consideration. Because of their sensitive nature, guinea pigs are more comfortable and relaxed when housed in a quiet spot away from noise, excitement, and other such stresses. Also be sure to select a location away from direct sunlight and avoid cold damp areas. Guinea pigs thrive in a dry, cool environment with adequate ventilation. Drastic environmental changes should be prevented (especially high temperatures and humidity). Since they are nocturnal (active at night), guinea pigs require quiet periods of light in order to rest.

Since guinea pigs are social creatures, more than one animal may be safely housed together. In addition, males and females can remain in the same enclosure indefinitely. However, new males may occasionally fight if in the presence of a female. Older, dominant animals may also chew on the ears or hair of subordinate cage-mates.

Reproduction

The single most important consideration regarding guinea pig breeding is that the female guinea pig (sow) should be bred between four and seven months of age if she is to be bred at all. If the first breeding is delayed much beyond this time, serious and often fatal problems with delivery may result. The reason for this is that the pelvis of the guinea pig fuses at this early age which narrows the birth canal and prevent the babies from passing easily. Males (boars) should be at least four months of age before breeding.

The sow's estrus cycle ('heat') lasts 14 to 19 days. The actual period in which the sow is receptive to the boar for breeding is approximately eight to fifteen hours during this cycle. Sows often return to 'heat' within a few hours after giving birth. This time is known as 'postpartum estrous' which means that she can be nursing one litter while being pregnant with another.

Pregnancy lasts between 63 and 70 days. The gestation is shorter with larger litters and longer with small litters. This duration of pregnancy is relatively long when compared to other rodents.

Pregnant sows exhibit a grossly enlarged abdomen during the later stages of pregnancy. Her body weight may actually double during pregnancy. The time of delivery is difficult to assess in guinea pigs due to the relatively long gestation period and lack of nest building by the sow. Within one week prior to delivery, a slight widening of the pelvic area can be noted. If this separation of the pelvis does not occur, then it can cause the delivery problems mentioned previously. Therefore, sows bred past seven months of age require caesarean section for delivery of the young.

An uncomplicated delivery usually takes about one-half hour with an average of five minutes between babies. Litter sizes range between one and six with an average of three to four. First time litters are usually very small. Unfortunately, abortions and stillbirths are not uncommon with guinea pigs.

The young are very well developed at birth. They weigh between 50 and 100 grams and have a full hair coat. Babies are even born with teeth and open eyes. Mothers are not very maternal in the raising of the offspring in that she does not build a nest and even remains in a sitting position while nursing. The young can actually eat solid food and drink from a bowl shortly after birth, but it is recommended to allow them to nurse for three weeks before weaning.